《拉薩情書》

第二十六章、懷民和莉敏去西藏出差
01
湯愛玉收到安妮的電子信，高興得就像囚犯接到特赦令，立馬拿著手機給兩老過目。
羅桑正色說：「妳就過去陪妳大嫂，但是到了那裡，可別趴趴走。」
美蘭也說：「是啊！妳要聽大嫂差遣，不可鬧脾氣喔。」
愛玉拱手說：「是！奴婢領旨。」
羅桑吩咐說：「妳去整理行李訂機票，我開車送妳去機場。」
愛玉伸手吊嗓子說：「皇阿瑪，給盤纏和糧草啊！」
羅桑笑著罵說：「給妳去加州渡假，還要盤纏和糧草？就來回機票。」
美蘭笑說：「給她啦！她說不定要待到安妮做完月子。」
羅桑說：「好吧！看在金孫面子上，我就不跟妳計較。」

02
蘇莉敏和湯懷民抵達上海虹橋機場，兩人就近找了一家旅館過夜，等著明天轉機到成都。蘇莉敏剪了一頭俏麗的男生髮型，穿上男生的襯衫牛仔褲，臉上完全不施脂粉，可看上去還認得出是個女生，只不過感覺更年輕些。
旅館房間裡，懷民在書桌上攤開一張地圖，指著地圖說：「明天到了成都，先去找我岳父札希，他應該收到我的電子信了。」
「然後呢？」
「我岳父會整理一份清單，把裡面的資料寄來加州給我內人。」
「好的，那接下來呢？」
「札希會陪我們一起搭車進入西藏。」
「火車嗎？」
「不是，是搭乘一位當地導遊的客貨車。」
莉敏納悶問：「為什麼不搭火車？這季節那裡冰天雪地，山路不是很不好走？」
「妳放心，這位導遊熟悉路況。搭他的貨車，我們可以在許多景點停車，勘景順便進行田野調查。」
「好吧！這理由成立。」
「妳有沒有高山症啊？敏姐。」
「還好吧！我搭過熱氣球。」
懷民笑著說：「那不一樣啦！」
莉敏一派輕鬆說：「反正，我的身體自己會去適應的。」
懷民說：「今晚我睡沙發。」
莉敏嬌笑說：「怎麼？你怕又被我給上了？」
懷民苦笑說：「瓜田李下，我還是識相些。」

03
成都機場出境大廳外，札希和張揚引頸望著走出來的旅客。
張揚指著說：「教授，格桑和那女的出來了。」
兩人迎上前去，張揚接手行李推車。
「父親，這位是我的公司主管蘇莉敏，跟我是台灣同鄉。」
「幸會！蘇小姐。我是成都藝大教授倉央‧札希。」札希主動跟莉敏握手。
莉敏雙手抱拳說：「久仰教授大名！情僧倉央的後人氣宇不凡。」
「蘇小姐是人中之鳳，不吝提攜小婿，我本應該盡力襄助，可剛好我系所裡有幾個學術研討會陸續要召開，一時走不開身。資料我會開列清單逐一備妥，等你們要離開前，再讓你們帶著回去。入藏的行程，就請張揚代我陪著兩位前往。等開春後，我搭機前往拉薩找你們。」
莉敏說：「教授公忙裡抽身協助，晚輩感謝再三。」
四人來到門口，張揚和懷民一起把大小行李搬上箱型車，駛離機場。

04
札希領著蘇莉敏和湯懷民（格桑）進到成都藝術大學，校區寬敞校舍整齊新穎，在現代化的教學樓群間，還保留舊時代的石板拱橋和水岸造景，呈現出文化質感。
蘇莉敏讚美說：「這大學感覺相當棒，各學院建築物有各自的風格特色，我原本以為這裡跟柏克來或長堤相似，應該是古色古香，沒想到都是美侖美奐的現代化建築。」
札希微笑說：「這二十年，中國整個脫胎換骨，呈現出現代化國家的新氣象。」
三人來到藝術學院，進到札希的研究室，札希立馬沖泡一壺茶，蘇莉敏卻被三面書牆上的書籍和畫冊吸引住，直到懷民靠上去輕拍她的肩頭，才回神走到茶几坐下來。
「蘇小姐，我初步過濾出一批先祖倉央‧嘉措的資料，若還有不足夠，妳隨時提醒我。」札希拿出一張清單給蘇莉敏。
莉敏瀏覽過清單說：「先這些吧！感謝教授費心。」
「蘇小姐，請用茶。」
莉敏端起茶杯說：「這咖啡色茶湯，味道應該是雲南普洱吧？」
「沒錯！西藏藏民喝的奶茶，也是普洱去調的。」札希接著說：「這一路上天候酷寒，我吩咐張揚隨車攜帶爐具，隨時煮奶茶熱食給你們禦寒。」
莉敏抱拳致意說：「教授設想得如此周到，由衷感謝。」

05
安妮的房車回到家門前，湯愛玉下車，望著這幢兩層樓木造房，短籬笆裡的小前庭綠草如茵，庭院角落有塊農田，草莓果實紅紅綠綠結實纍纍。
愛玉讚嘆說：「大嫂，你們家簡直跟童話一樣呢！」
安妮掀開後車廂蓋提醒說：「記得妳自己的行李，我現在不方便幫妳喔。」
「哈！顧著眼前美景，差點忘記行李。」愛玉繞回車後，拉出行李，跟著安妮穿過小前庭進到客廳。
「哇！大嫂，有壁爐耶！」
「是啊！但不常用，除非遇到下雪天。」
「美國人很注重居家環境，寬敞舒適，真像天堂那樣。」
「郊區的房子都是獨棟獨戶，鄰居間隔著庭院，既有隱私又能避免相互干擾。」安妮接著說：「妳的房間在二樓客房，有兩間，妳自己挑一間。」
「大嫂，妳說後院有一排蘋果和櫻桃樹。」
「妳把行李拉去二樓房間，推開後窗就看見了。」
「好的！」愛玉滿意地微笑說：「待會兒我就下樓，跟妳學做果醬。」
愛玉拉著行李上二樓，挑了其中一間客房，擱下行李，推開後窗，果然一排果樹結實纍纍，她頭一次看見蘋果和櫻桃樹，被眼前的美景深深吸引住。

06
蘋果樹下，湯愛玉扛來長鋁梯，背上揹著塑膠繩編織袋。愛玉架好鋁梯，爬上去跨坐在頂層，一隻手握著採收長竿。
「要是我哥，他徒手就爬上去了。」
「是啊！懷民身手跟猴子似的。上週末他採過一波了。」
愛玉持採收竿把枝條一條條拉過來，挑套黃色紙袋的採下，很快就裝滿一袋。接著以採收竿把整袋蘋果吊掛，垂下給安妮接手。
「可以再採兩波，直到農曆春節。往年採三波，今年結果狀況不錯。」
愛玉讚許說：「大嫂，你們真聰明，用不同顏色紙袋來套袋，省下不少功夫。」
「是啊！你大哥想出來的辦法，不過，套袋時他可忙壞了。」
兩女在果樹下忙了大半個早上，十幾袋蘋果和櫻桃堆放草坪上。
愛玉雙手插腰說：「亂有成就感的，大嫂。這堆起碼超過四百公斤，夠我們忙上四五天。」
「要不是我忙著寫論文，我一個人一天就能處理一百五十公斤。」
「那大嫂先教會我，我可以多出些力。」
安妮微笑說：「我們還是一起動手吧？處理的速度會快一倍。」
愛玉好奇問：「四百公斤可做成多少瓶果醬、賣多少錢啊？」
「六百瓶六百克的果醬，賣兩千六百元美金。」
「哇！接近八萬台幣耶！扣除成本呢？」
安妮心算了一下說：「大約五萬台幣吧！」
「那也還很多啊！」愛玉說：「我留在山上每天工作十四小時，月薪才三萬元。」

07
張揚的房車離開成都，走南路往雅安出發。一路上的景象由雨雪，隨著海拔高度轉為瑞雪紛飛。
車廂後座裡，蘇莉敏依偎著湯懷民(格桑)，因為寒冷和暈車而昏睡。
張揚從後照鏡裡見到兩人偎在一起，起先心裡有些納悶：「格桑這傢伙跟這娘兒們，到底是啥關係？」後來他逐漸釋懷，自己聽著音樂，打發行車時間。
車到雅安，已接近傍晚。蘇莉敏凍得身體蜷縮起來，格桑揹她下車，三人進到餐館，接觸到熱氣，莉敏逐漸回魂起來。
格桑喊著：「老闆，先來三碗酥油奶茶。」
夥計往後堂喊：「好的，前桌客人，奶茶三碗。」
格桑把菜單推到蘇莉敏面前：「敏姐，menu。」
「你點吧！」蘇莉敏氣息虛弱說：「只要熱的就行。」
格桑和張揚合點了幾樣。奶茶送來，三人均喝了一碗，莉敏身體才暖和起來
不一會兒，夥計送來甜酒、肉湯、奶渣糕、燒餅和烤羊肉。
張揚說：「看這情形，咱們不必急著趕路，怕蘇小姐會吃不消。」
格桑說：「今晚，我們就在雅安住下，盤旋一兩天，等雪稍停再上路。」
格桑倒了一杯甜酒給蘇莉敏：「敏姐，吃些東西後，喝幾杯甜酒，就不會覺得冷。」
「沒想到這裡凍成這樣。」莉敏苦笑一下說：「我還以為自己撐得下去，懷民，謝謝你一路上讓我抱著。」
「吃些藏族美食吧？」格桑說：「妳總要入境隨俗啊！」
三人動手吃起來，莉敏問：「這糕點滋味很好，叫什麼來著。」
「奶渣糕。」張揚說：「女孩家都會喜歡這糕。」

08
夜裡，三人窩在一間有暖氣的房間，圍著小酌青稞酒。
莉敏問：「這裡冬天都這麼冷嗎？」
張揚說：「也不盡然，沒下雪時就沒那麼凍。」
莉敏說：「美國五大湖區，感覺也沒這麼冷。」
張揚說：「這裡地勢高風大，體感溫度就會冷一些。」
莉敏好奇問：「這裡的牛羊，冬天有青草料吃嗎？」
「那要看是圈牧還是放牧。」張揚解釋說：「圈牧的農家，夏秋天就會準備冬天的草料，餵食牛羊使用曬乾過的草料。放牧的農家，會把牲口往山下或山谷趕去，那裡較暖和，還能找到一些草料。」
莉敏問：「有空檔時，可以帶我去看牧民們趕牛羊下山嗎？張揚。」
張揚說：「可以啊！等雪停了，就帶妳去找附近的牧民隊伍。」
莉敏問：「懷民，在想你老婆啊？都不說話。」
格桑微笑說：「這陣子她應該正在忙著採收果實，製作果醬。」
格桑問：「張揚，你跟美多幾時要結婚啊？」
張揚說：「美多啊！說要我等她考上博士班。」
莉敏感慨說：「好男人，都早早被挑光了……」
張揚笑著說：「我說蘇小姐，好男人其實多得是，就看妳想不想成家囉。」
莉敏反問說：「成家？也得找個旗鼓相當的男人吧？」
張揚識趣說：「這…，我就不敢替蘇小姐拿主意了。」

09
陽光露臉，雪停後的草原，覆蓋著一層白雪，上千隻牛羊分成兩邊，低頭啃食雪堆裡的枯草，幾支牧民隊伍徜徉其間。蘇莉敏拿著數位相機、湯懷民扛著數位錄像機跟著時而移動的牲口拍攝，張揚跟在懷民身旁，充當錄音師幫忙端著收音麥克風長棍。懷民忙到一段落，收拾錄像機和麥克風，放進手提箱。
張揚忍不住好奇問：「格桑，你是錄影師啊？」
「不算是，我只是臨時客串。」懷民手上忙著。
「你在美國哪家電影公司高就啊？」
「狄士尼動畫公司。」
張揚讚嘆說：「狄士尼動畫公司？那可是大大有名的跨國公司呢！你真行啊！」
「我是儲訓動畫師，目前還在見習階段。」
張揚不解問：「見習階段？」
「就是試用期間，還沒成為正式的動畫師。」
張揚接著探問：「那位蘇小姐，我聽你稱她姐姐，你跟她是同事？」
「敏姐是我的部門主管，跟我是台灣同鄉。」
張揚搔頭傻笑：「喔！剛開始我還以為你們兩個…，哈！不好意思。」
「不要緊，張揚。」懷民把手提箱蓋子鎖上。
張揚不好意思地問：「安妮，她人現在過得好嗎？」
「我們結婚了，她正在寫博士論文，明年五月就升格當媽媽了。」
「喔！」張揚臉上閃過一絲失落的苦笑：「你們的確很般配。」
「張揚，等你和美多要結婚時，記得通知我，時間允許的話，我會帶著安妮專程前來祝賀。」
張揚拍拍懷民肩膀說：「謝啦！有你這句話，我張揚就當你格桑是好哥兒們。」
懷民說：「敏姐拍得差不多了，咱們準備回城裡去。」
Chapter 26: Huai-min and Li-min’s Business Trip to Tibet
01
Tang Aiyu received Annie’s email and was as happy as a prisoner granted a pardon. She immediately showed her phone to her parents.
Losang said seriously, “You’re just going to accompany your elder sister-in-law, but don’t wander around once you get there.”
Meilan added, “Yes! You have to follow her instructions and not throw a tantrum.”
Aiyu cupped her hands respectfully: “Yes! Your humble servant obeys.”
Losang instructed, “Go pack your luggage and book your flight. I’ll drive you to the airport.”
Aiyu raised her hand dramatically: “Father, please provide travel funds and provisions!”
Losang laughed and scolded: “I’m sending you to California on vacation; you still want travel funds and provisions? Just the round-trip ticket.”
Meilan smiled: “Let her be! She might stay until Annie finishes her confinement period.”
Losang said, “Alright, for the sake of our golden grandson, I won’t quibble with you.”
02
Su Limin and Tang Huaimin arrived at Shanghai Hongqiao Airport. They found a nearby hotel to stay overnight before connecting to a flight to Chengdu the next day. Su Limin had cut her hair into a stylish short boyish style, wore a man’s shirt and jeans, and had no makeup on. She still looked like a girl, just younger.
In the hotel room, Huaimin spread a map across the desk and pointed at it: “Tomorrow in Chengdu, we’ll first visit my father-in-law, Zaxi. He should have received my email.”
“And then?”
“My father-in-law will prepare a list and send the information back to my wife in California.”
“Okay, and after that?”
“Zaxi will accompany us as we drive into Tibet.”
“By train?”
“No, we’ll take a local guide’s passenger-and-cargo vehicle.”
Limin asked curiously, “Why not by train? It’s icy and snowy there this season, and the mountain roads must be treacherous.”
“Don’t worry. The guide knows the roads well. With his truck, we can stop at many scenic spots and do field research along the way.”
“Alright, that makes sense.”
“Do you get altitude sickness, Sister Min?”
“I think I’ll be fine. I’ve been in a hot-air balloon before.”
Huaimin laughed: “That’s not the same thing!”
Limin replied casually, “Anyway, my body will adapt on its own.”
Huaimin said, “I’ll sleep on the sofa tonight.”
Limin giggled: “What? Afraid you’ll get overpowered again?”
Huaimin smiled wryly: “Better to be cautious than regret it.”
03
Outside Chengdu Airport’s departure hall, Zaxi and Zhang Yang craned their necks to watch the arriving passengers.
Zhang Yang pointed: “Professor, Gesang and the woman have come out.”
They went forward, and Zhang Yang took over the luggage trolley.
“Father, this is my company supervisor, Su Limin. She’s from Taiwan, same as me.”
“Nice to meet you, Miss Su. I’m Zangyang Zaxi, a professor at Chengdu University of the Arts.” Zaxi extended his hand to Limin.
Limin clasped her hands in a respectful gesture: “I’ve long admired you, Professor! The presence of the descendant of the monk Zangyang is extraordinary.”
“Miss Su is exceptional and generous in assisting my son-in-law. I should help as much as I can, but I have several academic conferences coming up and can’t leave. I’ll prepare the materials in a list and have them ready for you before departure. Zhang Yang will accompany you on the Tibet trip. After spring, I’ll fly to Lhasa to meet you.”
Limin said: “Professor, we truly appreciate you taking time out of your busy schedule to help us.”
The four reached the entrance. Zhang Yang and Huaimin loaded the luggage onto a van and left the airport.
04
Zaxi led Su Limin and Tang Huaimin (Gesang) into Chengdu University of the Arts. The campus was spacious, with tidy modern buildings. Among the modern teaching blocks, old stone arch bridges and waterside landscaping remained, giving a cultural touch.
Su Limin admired: “This university is impressive. Each college has its own architectural style. I expected it to resemble Berkeley or Long Beach, with classical charm, but these are stunning modern buildings.”
Zaxi smiled: “Over the past twenty years, China has completely transformed, presenting the new image of a modern country.”
The three arrived at the School of Arts and entered Zaxi’s office. He immediately brewed tea, while Limin was captivated by the books and art albums on three walls, only returning to reality when Huaimin lightly tapped her shoulder. She sat at the tea table.
“Miss Su, I’ve preliminarily filtered a batch of materials about our ancestor Zangyang Jia-cuo. If more is needed, please let me know.” Zaxi handed her a list.
After reviewing it, Limin said: “This will do for now. Thank you, Professor.”
“Please enjoy the tea, Miss Su.”
Limin lifted the cup: “This brown tea must be Yunnan Pu’er?”
“Yes. The milk tea Tibetans drink is also mixed with Pu’er,” Zaxi said. “The weather along the way will be freezing, so I instructed Zhang Yang to carry stoves to prepare milk tea and hot food for warmth.”
Limin cupped her hands in gratitude: “Professor, you’ve considered everything. Thank you sincerely.”
05
Annie’s van returned home. Tang Aiyu stepped out, gazing at the two-story wooden house. The small front yard, enclosed by a short fence, had lush green grass, and a corner of the yard held a farm plot with strawberries heavy with red and green fruit.
Aiyu exclaimed: “Sister-in-law, your house is like a fairy tale!”
Annie opened the trunk: “Remember your luggage. I can’t help you right now.”
“Ha! I almost forgot the luggage with this view before me.” Aiyu retrieved her luggage and followed Annie through the front yard into the living room.
“Wow! Sister-in-law, a fireplace!”
“Yes, but we rarely use it unless it snows.”
“Americans really value comfortable, spacious homes—it feels like paradise.”
“Suburban houses are detached with yards in between. You get privacy and avoid disturbing neighbors,” Annie explained. “Your room is on the second floor. There are two—pick one.”
“Sister-in-law, you said there’s a row of apple and cherry trees in the backyard?”
“Take your luggage upstairs, open the back window, and you’ll see them.”
“Okay!” Aiyu smiled, satisfied: “Later I’ll come down and learn to make jam with you.”
Aiyu carried her luggage upstairs, picked a guest room, and pushed open the back window. Sure enough, a row of fruit trees heavy with produce immediately captivated her.
06
Under the apple trees, Tang Aiyu carried a long aluminum ladder and a plastic woven bag on her back. She set up the ladder, climbed to the top, and sat astride with one hand holding a harvesting pole.
“If it were my brother, he’d climb up barehanded.”
“Yes! Huai-min is agile as a monkey. He harvested last weekend already.”
Aiyu used the harvesting pole to pull branches and slipped apples into yellow paper bags, quickly filling one bag. She then suspended the bag with the pole for Annie to take.
“We can harvest in two more rounds before the Lunar New Year. In previous years, we did three. This year’s yield is good.”
Aiyu praised: “Sister-in-law, you’re clever using different colored bags—it saves a lot of work.”
“Yes! My brother thought of it, but he was busy when bagging.”
The two women worked most of the morning. Over ten bags of apples and cherries piled on the lawn.
Aiyu placed her hands on her hips: “This is satisfying, Sister-in-law. This pile must be over 400 kg—it’ll keep us busy for four or five days.”
“If I weren’t busy with my thesis, I could handle 150 kg alone in a day.”
“Then teach me first; I can help more.”
Annie smiled: “Let’s work together—it’ll be twice as fast.”
Aiyu curiously asked: “Four hundred kilos can make how many jars of jam? How much money?”
“Six hundred 600g jars, selling for $2,600 USD.”
“Wow! Almost 80,000 TWD! Minus costs?”
“About 50,000 TWD,” Annie calculated.
“Still a lot!” Aiyu said. “I work 14 hours a day in the mountains for 30,000 TWD a month.”
07
Zhang Yang’s van left Chengdu, heading south toward Ya’an. The scenery shifted from rain to snow, and as altitude increased, heavy snow fell.
In the back seat, Su Limin leaned against Tang Huaimin (Gesang), falling asleep from the cold and motion sickness. Zhang Yang noticed them through the rearview mirror, puzzled: “What’s the deal between Gesang and this woman?” He gradually relaxed and passed the time listening to music.
Arriving in Ya’an near dusk, Limin, freezing, was carried down by Gesang. The three entered a restaurant. Feeling the warmth, Limin revived.
Gesang called: “Boss, three bowls of butter tea first.”
A waiter shouted back: “Yes, front table, three bowls of butter tea.”
Gesang handed the menu to Limin: “Sister Min, the menu.”
“You order! I just need something warm,” she said weakly.
They ordered several dishes. After drinking a bowl of tea, Limin felt warm. Soon, the waiter brought sweet wine, meat soup, milk residue cakes, baked pastries, and roasted lamb.
Zhang Yang said: “We needn’t rush. Miss Su might not handle it well.”
Gesang said: “Tonight, we’ll stay in Ya’an, wait a day or two until the snow eases.” He poured Limin some sweet wine: “Drink some after eating; it’ll warm you up.”
“I didn’t expect it to be this cold,” Limin smiled wryly: “I thought I could endure it. Huaimin, thank you for letting me lean on you all the way.”
“Try some Tibetan food,” Gesang said. “When in Rome, right?”
They ate. Limin asked: “This pastry is tasty. What’s it called?”
“Milk residue cake,” Zhang Yang replied. “Girls usually love it.”
08
At night, the three huddled in a heated room, sipping barley wine.
Limin asked: “Is it always this cold in winter?”
Zhang Yang: “Not really; it’s warmer without snow.”
Limin: “The US Great Lakes region doesn’t feel this cold.”
Zhang Yang: “High altitude and wind make it feel colder.”
Curious, Limin asked: “Do the cattle and sheep have fresh grass in winter?”
Zhang Yang explained: “It depends on whether it’s fenced or free-range. Farmers with fenced livestock store dried hay for winter. Free-range herders move animals to lower valleys with some forage.”
Limin asked: “If we have time, can you take me to see herders move cattle and sheep down the mountains?”
“Sure! Once the snow stops, I’ll take you to nearby herders.”
Limin teased Huaimin: “Thinking of your wife? You’re quiet.”
Gesang smiled: “She must be busy harvesting fruit and making jam.”
Gesang asked Zhang Yang: “When will you and Meiduo marry?”
Zhang Yang: “She wants me to wait until she’s admitted to a PhD program.”
Limin sighed: “Good men are all taken early…”
Zhang Yang laughed: “Miss Su, there are plenty of good men; it depends if you want to settle down.”
Limin: “Settle down? You need someone equally matched, right?”
Zhang Yang wisely said: “Then… I won’t decide that for you, Miss Su.”
09
After the snow, the sun revealed a snow-covered grassland, with over a thousand cattle and sheep grazing, split into two herds. Several herding teams wandered among them.
Su Limin took photos with a digital camera, Tang Huaimin filmed with a digital video camera, and Zhang Yang followed, holding the microphone boom for sound recording.
After a break, Huaimin packed the camera and microphone into a suitcase.
Zhang Yang asked: “Gesang, you’re a videographer?”
“Not exactly, just a temporary role,” Huaimin replied, busy with the equipment.
“Which US film company do you work for?”
“Disney Animation.”
Zhang Yang exclaimed: “Disney? That’s huge! Amazing!”
“I’m a trainee animator, still in the probation stage.”
“Probation stage?”
“Still a trial period, not a full animator yet.”
“Miss Su, you’re his supervisor?”
“Yes, and we’re both from Taiwan.”
Zhang Yang laughed sheepishly: “Oh! At first I thought…”
“No problem, Zhang Yang,” Huaimin closed the suitcase.
Zhang Yang asked: “How’s Annie now?”
“We’re married. She’s writing her PhD and will become a mother next May.”
“Oh!” Zhang Yang smiled wryly: “You two really suit each other.”
“Zhang Yang, when you and Meiduo marry, let me know. If time permits, Annie and I will come to congratulate you.”
Zhang Yang patted Huaimin’s shoulder: “Thanks! With that, I’ll consider you, Gesang, a good friend.”
Huaimin: “Sister Min, you’ve taken enough footage. Let’s head back to the city.”