《拉薩情書》

第五章、往拉薩的行程
01
箱型車往雅安的路上奔馳。
張揚說：「這一路上的風景相當不錯喔！大山大水，氣勢磅礡雄偉。」
安妮說：「我知道，先前在我父親的相簿冊裡見過。」
張揚說：「你們美國的大峽谷，我在月曆照片上看過，跟這裡的感覺不一樣，但
都很壯觀。」
安妮說：「你們這裡治安比較好，我們那兒槍枝取得容易，每天新聞裡都免不了
有一些警匪槍戰新聞。」
張揚驚訝說：「那真是不可思議呢！在我們這裡，老百姓是不准許持有槍枝的。」
美多說：「以前感覺美國很遙遠，在地平線的那一頭。以後有機會，真想去美國
見識一下。」
札希有感而發說：「美國其實沒有你們想像的那麼美好，有色人種仍然受到某種程度的歧視，黑人仍是經濟上的弱勢族群。」
張揚說：「這二十年來，中央對西藏地區相當重視，各項建設突飛猛進。觀光產
業逐漸成為我們藏民主要的經濟支柱。」
札希說：「所以囉！你有份地陪的收入。」
張揚愉悅地說：「說得也是啦！教授。」

02
箱型車來到雅安，天空飄著毛毛細雨。識途老馬的張揚，把三人帶到一家藏族餐館，這家餐館札希跟他來過幾次。一行人進到餐館，老闆熱情招呼：「張揚、札希教授，歡迎諸位。」
幾桌客人不約而同瞧著紅頭髮、洋人五官輪廓的安妮。
札希說：「先來一壺酥油茶，暖暖身子。」
張揚說：「還要兩斤風乾氂牛肉，一盤奶渣糕。」
老闆說：「好的，諸位請稍待片刻。」
老闆轉身往廚房去。
張揚說：「雅安素來被稱為雨城，這裡位在印度洋季風迎風坡上，經常下雨。風乾氂牛肉和奶渣糕是這裡的名產。」

Chapter Five – The Journey to Lhasa
01
The van sped along the road toward Ya’an.
Zhang Yang said, “The scenery along this route is spectacular—majestic mountains and vast rivers.”
Annie replied, “I know. I’ve seen photos in my father’s album before.”
Zhang Yang said, “I’ve seen pictures of the Grand Canyon in American calendars. It feels different from here, but just as magnificent.”
Annie said, “Public safety here seems much better. In the U.S., guns are easy to get. The news is full of shootings every day.”
Zhang Yang said in surprise, “That’s unbelievable. Here, civilians are not allowed to own firearms.”
Mido added, “America always felt so far away—like the other side of the horizon. If I ever get the chance, I’d really like to go and see it.”
Zhashi sighed lightly. “America isn’t as perfect as you imagine. People of color still face discrimination, and African Americans remain economically disadvantaged.”
Zhang Yang said, “Over the past twenty years, the central government has invested heavily in Tibet. Infrastructure has developed rapidly, and tourism has become one of our main sources of income.”
Zhashi smiled. “That’s why you have steady work as a guide.”
Zhang Yang laughed. “That’s true, Professor.”
________________________________________
02
The van arrived in Ya’an under a misty drizzle. Familiar with the area, Zhang Yang led them to a Tibetan restaurant he and Zhashi had visited before. The owner greeted them warmly.
“Zhang Yang! Professor Zhashi! Welcome!”
Several diners couldn’t help glancing at Annie, with her red hair and Western features.
“Let’s start with a pot of butter tea to warm ourselves,” Zhashi said.
“And two jin of air-dried yak meat, plus a plate of milk curd cakes,” Zhang Yang added.
“Coming right up,” the owner replied before heading to the kitchen.
Zhang Yang explained, “Ya’an is known as the ‘City of Rain.’ It sits on the windward side of the Indian Ocean monsoon zone. The dried yak meat and milk curd cakes are local specialties.”
Mido smiled at Annie. “You’ll like the milk curd cakes. They’re a traditional Tibetan treat.”
Zhashi added, “When in Rome, do as the Romans do. You’ll have to get used to our food.”
Annie nodded with a smile.
The dishes arrived, followed by a pot of butter tea. Annie mimicked the others, pinching a piece of milk curd cake with her fingers and tasting it.
“Not bad, right?” Mido asked.
Annie covered her mouth and nodded, smiling.
________________________________________
03
At dusk, the van arrived in Litang. The group stayed overnight at Litang Monastery.
Inside the abbot’s chamber, Rinpoche Wangxiu and Zhashi sat cross-legged on cushions, their shadows flickering against the paper windows in the candlelight.
“Professor Zhashi, have you made any progress on the manuscript of Tsangyang Gyatso’s love poems?” the Rinpoche asked.
“I’ve searched Lhasa, the Jokhang and Ramoche Temples, and nearby nomadic areas,” Zhashi replied. “But there’s still no trace of it.”
“You might try heading west to Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatse. You may find some clues there.”
“I’ve been considering that.”
“The Buddha surely sees your devotion. When the time is right, guidance will come.”
“Thank you for your wisdom, Rinpoche.”
________________________________________
04
Zhashi and Annie walked together in the monastery courtyard.
“Annie, have you heard of the Seventh Dalai Lama, Kelzang Gyatso?” Zhashi asked.
“Yes.”
“He was the reincarnation of our ancestor Tsangyang Gyatso. Litang is his birthplace, which connects this place to our family history.”
“Father, do you think the manuscript might be connected to this place?”
“I investigated that possibility years ago, but found no solid evidence. Abbot Wangxiu has also been keeping an eye out. My intuition tells me the manuscript is still in Tibet—perhaps in Lhasa, a nearby town, or even among nomadic families.”
“That sounds like searching for a needle in the ocean.”
Zhashi looked at her seriously. “If I can’t find it in my lifetime, would you be willing to continue the search?”
“I would,” Annie said softly.
Zhashi smiled. “Then I can die without regret.”
________________________________________
05
At Dongdala Pass, the van suddenly broke down—the battery began smoking. Dusk was approaching, and Mido and Annie grew anxious.
Zhang Yang opened the hood, checked the engine, then retrieved a satellite phone from the trunk.
“My van broke down at Dongdala Pass. The battery’s dead.”
“What? Even from Mangkang, it’ll take half a day to get there.”
“Can you send one over tonight?”
“I’ll have someone bring it overnight. Should reach you by seven or eight in the morning.”
“Alright, I’ll wait.”
After hanging up, Zhang Yang said, “This is the highest point on the Sichuan–Tibet Highway—over five thousand meters above sea level. We’ll have to camp here tonight.”
Mido looked uneasy. “There won’t be wolves around here at night, will there?”
Zhashi reassured her, “Don’t worry. We’ll light a fire. Wolves won’t come near flames.”
They unloaded the gear. Annie filmed the scene—snow-capped peaks towering into the sky, the highway and the Lancang River winding like silver ribbons through the mountains.
Zhang Yang took out bottled water, dry rations, tents, and sleeping bags. Zhashi and Mido helped carry everything to a sheltered hollow.
________________________________________
06
In the lee of the mountain, the two men pitched the tent while the women gathered firewood. Soon a campfire crackled to life.
They shared butter biscuits, dried meat, and bottled water.
Then Zhang Yang took out a huqin.
“Let’s sing a little,” he said.
He played Kangding Love Song. Zhashi and Mido hummed along, while Annie clapped to the rhythm.
On the mountain where the horses roam,
A drifting cloud floats free.
It shines upon Kangding town,
So gentle and so sweet…
Zhang Yang’s eyes lingered on Annie as he sang, tenderness in his voice. Annie didn’t notice—but Mido did. A faint jealousy stirred within her.
He used to dote on me like that, she thought. Now he’s completely taken by her…
________________________________________
07
The next morning, the replacement battery arrived. Zhang Yang installed it, and the engine roared back to life.
They packed up the tents and gear, then continued the journey.
Soon they entered Nyingchi, where the smooth asphalt of National Highway 318 stretched ahead.
Zhang Yang said cheerfully, “Another half-day and we’ll be in Lhasa.”
Half-asleep, Annie gazed out the window at the passing scenery.
作者：the time they reached the city, dusk had fallen. Zhang Yang dropped them off at the hotel and helped unload the luggage.
“I’ll pick you up tomorrow at eight for a city tour,” he said.
“Thank you for everything,” Zhashi said, handing him a stack of bills.
“Don’t mention it—we’re old friends,” Zhang Yang replied, pocketing the money without counting it.
“I’ll take them out for dinner tonight,” he added before waving goodbye.
The hotel clerk handed the keys to Zhashi and Mido. The three went upstairs and settled into their rooms.
Annie stood by the window, gazing at the city bathed in twilight.
“I didn’t expect Lhasa to be this modern,” she said. “It’s far more developed than I imagined.”
Mido smiled. “Lhasa changes every time I come back.”

美多說：「安妮，奶渣糕風味獨特，是咱們藏族美食，妳一定會喜歡的。
札希也說：「入境隨俗，妳得盡快適應族人的飲食習慣。」
安妮點頭微笑。
老闆端來一只盤子，把風乾氂牛肉和奶渣糕擱上桌面。跟在身後的伙計，把一壺調勻的酥油奶茶擱上桌。
老闆說：「諸位請慢用。」
安妮模仿三人，以手指抓取奶渣糕，送進嘴裡。
美多問：「滋味不錯吧？」
安妮摀著嘴，微笑著點頭。

03
傍晚，箱型車抵達理塘，一行人在縣裡的理塘寺借宿。
住持禪房裡，住持旺秀仁波切和札希坐在蒲團上聊著，燭火將兩人的影子映照在紙窗上。
「札希教授，那卷倉央．嘉措情詩手稿，你有進展嗎？」
「拉薩的布達拉宮、鄰近的大小昭寺等，還有周邊牧民部落，我都地毯式地查訪過，都沒有手稿的訊息。」
「你不妨往西走訪日喀則扎什倫布寺，或許會有所發現。」
「我的確有此打算。」
「你的苦心，我相信佛祖感受到了，祂會在適當時機，給你一些提示。」
「感謝旺秀仁波切開示。」

04
札希和安妮父女，在理塘寺的院子裡散步。
「安妮，妳聽奶奶提過七世達賴喇嘛格桑．嘉措吧？」
安妮點頭說：「聽過。」
「格桑．嘉措是繼承我們先祖倉央．嘉措轉世活佛，理塘縣正是他的出生地，算起來和我們家族有些關聯。」
「父親，老祖宗的那卷情詩手稿，會不會跟這裡有關？」
「這條線索，十幾年前我就著手調查過，但沒查出任何可能的關聯。這裡的住持旺秀跟我相熟，一直幫我留意著手稿的消息。我的直覺研判，那卷手稿應該還留在西藏境內，可能就在拉薩或附近城市，甚至是牧民部落裡。」
「這樣聽起來，要找回那卷手稿，真如海底撈針，只能期待奇蹟了。」
札希正色問：「安妮，在我有生之年若沒找到，妳願不願意接手呢？」
「父親，我願意接下這份使命。」
札希微笑說：「有妳這句話，我就死而無憾了！」

05
客貨車來到東達拉山口，因電瓶冒煙而拋錨。天色近黃昏，車上的美多和安妮情緒有些不安。張揚下車，走到車頭前，掀開引擎蓋檢查，然後繞到後車箱，取出衛星天線，撥打手機找到熟識的修車廠。
「我是張揚啊！我的車拋錨在東達拉山口，電瓶燒壞了。」
「從我這兒芒康送料件過去，那也得大半天才到得了啊。」
「那你幾時送電瓶過來？」
「我待會兒差伙計連夜給你送去，約莫早上七、八點到達山口。」
「好！我等著呦！」
張揚收起衛星天線，走到車門邊：「這裡是川藏線上最高點，海拔超過五千米。很抱歉，今晚咱們得在這裡搭帳蓬，紮營過夜囉。」
美多憂心問：「這裡荒山野嶺的，入夜後不會有狼群嗎？」
札希安撫說：「別擔心，咱們生一堆營火，不只可以保暖，狼群見到火光，也不敢靠近來。」
三人下車，安妮拿出攝像機，忙不停地拍照。從高入雲天，白雪皚皚的東達拉山口極目遠眺，川藏公路和瀾滄江似兩條晶亮的絲帶，在千山萬壑之間迴旋擺蕩。
張揚自後車廂陸續取出一箱礦泉水、一袋乾糧和帳篷睡袋，札希和美多幫忙把這些物品，搬到不遠處背風的山坳。

06
一處背風的山坳裡，兩個男人一起動手把帳篷搭起來，女孩撿回一些乾柴，升起一堆柴火。四人圍著柴火，張揚把礦泉水和乾糧分發給三人，啃著酥油餅、嚼著乾肉條配礦泉水。
隨後，張揚拿出一把胡琴。
張揚說：「咱們來唱幾首小曲兒，娛樂一下。」
張揚拉著「康定情歌」，札希和美多跟著旋律哼唱著，安妮跟著鼓掌打節拍。
跑馬溜溜的山上，一朵溜溜的雲喲
端端溜溜的照在，康定溜溜的城喲
月亮彎彎，康定溜溜的城喲~~

李家溜溜的大姊，人才溜溜的好喲
張家溜溜的大哥，看上溜溜的她喲
月亮彎彎，看上溜溜的她喲~~
張揚眼睛盯著安妮，歌聲裡透露著一份柔情，安妮並未察覺；美多察覺到張揚似乎對安妮懷有情意，心裡不免有些醋意：「這個張揚，以前把我捧在手心上，嘴巴甜的很，一見到安妮，看準人家從美國回來，就魂不守舍…」。

07
次日上午，伙計送來新的電瓶，張揚把引擎蓋掀開，換上新電瓶，順利發動車輛。張揚付錢給那伙計，伙計驅車離去。四人一起把收拾好的帳篷、睡袋搬上後車廂，客貨車繼續啟程。
客貨車進到林芝，筆直的柏油路318國道，路況相當良好。
張揚打起精神說：「再過半天車程，咱們就到拉薩了。」
後座的安妮睜開惺忪睡眼，望著窗外風景。
客貨車進到市區，已是黃昏，張揚把一夥人送到旅館門口，卸下行李。
札希三人下車，提著行李跟張揚進到旅館。張揚跟櫃台伙計交代了幾句，轉身走回來。
「明天上午八時，我會過來帶你們逛街導覽。」
「這趟旅程偏勞你，張揚。」札希說完，遞給張揚一疊紙鈔。
「應該的，咱們都老朋友了。」張揚數都沒數，就揣進長褲口袋。
「晚餐我會帶他們去街上吃。」
「那我先回老家一趟囉，明天見。」張揚跟三人揮手，轉身離開。櫃台伙計把兩把鑰匙交給札希和美多。
札希三人上樓，各自進到臥房，放下行李。
安妮走到窗邊，望著黃昏時的市區。
「沒想到這裡比想像中還要進步繁榮，完全是現代化的城市景觀。」
身後的美多說：「拉薩的確發展得很快，每趟回來感覺它一直在改變中。」