《拉薩情書》

第六章、拉薩八角井街商場上的相遇
01
上午，張揚陪著美多、安妮，在拉薩市區著名的八角街商場逛街，安妮走到一攤賣佛像畫的攤位前，專注地看著掛出來的兩幅畫像。
安妮心想：「這幅文成公主的畫像，五官跟我還真神似呢！有這麼巧合嗎？」
這時，身旁一個五官端正、身材英挺、穿漢族長袍的青年，正專注地盯著安妮，這青年正是湯懷民，藏名叫「德格‧格桑」。
安妮抬起頭，和懷民四目相接，安妮覺得這青年的五官面貌和圖像裡的松贊干布相當神似；懷民同樣覺得安妮像是他臨摹圖畫裡的文成公主。
安妮手指著那兩幅畫像：「老闆，請問這兩幅畫像要多少錢？」
老闆說：「這兩幅是展示用的非賣品，妳挑選別的吧。」
懷民一手拿起帽子，禮貌性地欠身微笑：「姑娘，妳請稍等我，我去幫你溝通一下。」安妮聽懂漢語，但一時間不解懷民用意。
懷民跟畫攤小販以藏語交談幾句，小販立即把那兩幅圖畫捲起遞給青年，青年把這兩幅圖畫遞給安妮。
「給妳，和妳結個善緣。」
安妮微笑著收下，望著那青年，心中對這青年生出一份好奇。

02
安妮和懷民邊逛街聊著，安妮手上提著一只紙袋，紙袋裡裝著那兩卷人像畫。美多和張揚跟在兩人身後，張揚視線一直沒離開安妮。
「我叫德格‧格桑，Nice to see you！」
「我叫Any，來自California。」
「跟我想的一樣，妳來自海外。初次回來西藏？」
「是啊，我回來找我父親，跟他一起回到西藏，這裡是我祖母的故鄉。」
「歡迎啊！我成長於台灣，我祖父是藏族人。大學美術系畢業後，回來家鄉服務同胞。」
安妮好奇問：「你來自台灣？」
「是啊！49年我爺爺去了台灣，住在市郊區的陽明山。」
「我旅行去過台灣，陽明山我到過，那時正值三月花季，印象深刻。那你怎麼會回來這裡？」
「我爺爺過世前幾年，台灣當局開放回大陸探親，爺爺帶著我父親回到西藏探親。去年底，我自願擔任援藏幹部，回到西藏協助文物局整理藏密佛教圖畫壁畫。」
安妮感興趣問：「整理藏密佛教圖畫壁畫？」
「妳手上的人像畫，就是我臨摹原畫的作品。」
安妮略顯驚訝問：「你臨摹原畫的作品？」
「是啊！我初見妳時，覺得妳的五官和文成公主相當神似。」
「喔？真的很像嗎？」
「是啊！有機會我帶妳去小昭寺，看那兩幅唐人原畫。」
「好啊！不過，我特地回來西藏，其實是要蒐集研究藏密佛教圖畫壁畫，作為博士論文主題。」
「那我肯定幫得上忙，給妳我在小昭寺的研究室及手機號碼，有空妳來找我，我那兒有些資料可以備份給妳。」格桑遞給他一張小名片紙。
「那我可得好好感謝你！」
安妮對這位素昧平生的青年，竟有著一種似曾相識的感覺。一旁冷眼觀察的張揚，心中不禁有些醋意。
「安妮，前面那幾條街值得去逛一下。」張揚手指著前方。
安妮說：「你帶路囉。」
安妮被張揚帶開，格桑望著安妮三人離去的背影。

03
三人繼續逛街，逛到賣紀念品攤位，安妮挑選著，美多一旁出主意，張揚幫安妮跟小販討價還價，安妮跟小販買了兩對天珠手環和兩串項鍊。
三人經過一家賣藏族服飾的商店，安妮走進去，張揚和美多跟進去。
安妮挑選著，美多一旁出主意，安妮選購一套藏族衣服，張揚熟門熟路，跟店家套交情。
「她是我自家妹子，巴查，你給價得實在些。」
「張揚哥，就批發價加一成，總不能要我賠錢賣。」
「不行！巴查，我帶多少客人來你店裡，這面子你得做給我。」
巴查苦笑說：「好啦好啦！算我怕你，200元整數，這是工廠給的批發價，不能
再低了。」
張揚滿意說：「好！哥兒們，夠義氣，這帳算我的。」
一旁的安妮立馬說：「不行！衣服是我要買的。」
張揚掏出皮夾，取出兩張百元鈔，要遞給老闆巴查，被安妮攔下。巴查看著兩人，想了一下，收下安妮給的鈔票。身後的美多，看著不禁皺起眉頭。

04
在張揚引領下，三人爬上長長參訪道，往布達拉宮。
張揚貼心問：「還走得動吧？安妮。」
安妮喘息著點頭，一手摸著胸口。美多跟在安妮身旁，不時出手攙扶。
張揚說：「腳步放慢些，就當是散步。」
三人進到紅宮，安妮很細心地參觀藏密文物，不時跟張揚、美多提問。兩人細心回答安妮。
三人來到轉經輪長廊，兩女跟著張揚轉動經輪。三人轉過經綸，來到庭院。
張揚問：「美多，妳知道轉經輪的作用嗎？」
美多說：「這我在書上讀到過，轉經輪的功德可成就修法的一切順緣，消除宿世
所累積罪障，遠離疾病苦厄。」
張揚微笑點頭說：「妳有概念，大致上就是這樣囉！」
安妮好奇問：「真有那麼神奇嗎？」
張揚說：「長輩們一直是這樣說的啊！」
同一時間，在一處遊客廂房裡，札希和紅宮裡一位相熟的執事喇嘛斯郎‧澤仁，圍著小方桌，對面盤腿而坐。
「教授，這趟回來藏區，目的還跟以往一樣嗎？」
「是啊！澤仁師兄，我此行仍將繼續訪查倉央先祖情詩手稿。」
澤仁語帶玄機說：「我前陣子夜觀星象，發現由松贊干布和文成公主轉世的一對青年男女已出現在西藏，我預感你此行必將有所收穫，若能先訪查到這對男女
，或許有可能找到失落的那卷倉央嘉措情詩手稿。」
札希聽了，心情為之一振。
澤仁喇嘛從檀木盒裡，取出一只信物給了札希。
「教授去日喀則路上，若有需要拜訪寺廟，可向住持出示此信物，彼等會以上賓之禮招待你。」
札希雙手恭敬領受：「感恩師兄大力協助。」

05
回到下榻旅館，安妮和美多同房。
安妮梳洗後，在窗前望著月光下朦朧的山色出神。悠悠聽見對街傳來歌曲，賣佛教用品店家播放音樂光盤，唱歌的女子聲音柔美清亮，身旁的美多剛洗過頭，拿著大浴巾擦頭髮。
「這首情歌是情僧倉央．嘉措寫的情詩其中一帖。」
安妮問：「喔？妳讀過「情僧」的情詩？美多。」
美多說：「是啊！倉央．嘉措如果不是轉世達賴，他會是一個浪漫的詩人。妳聽過帝王詞人李後主嗎？」
安妮點頭說：「聽過。」
「倉央．嘉措的浪漫但悲情的遭遇，和李後主相似，都是過不了情關。」
安妮跟著喃喃而語：「過不了情關…。」

Chapter Six – An Encounter at Barkhor Street, Lhasa
01
In the morning, Zhang Yang accompanied Mido and Annie as they strolled through Barkhor Street, the bustling marketplace of Lhasa. Annie stopped in front of a stall selling thangka paintings, her eyes fixed on two portraits hanging side by side.
That portrait of Princess Wencheng… she really looks like me, Annie thought. Could it really be such a coincidence?
At that moment, a young man with well-defined features, a tall and upright posture, and dressed in traditional Han-style robes stood beside her, gazing at her intently. His name was Tang Huaimin, known in Tibetan as Degé Gesang.
Annie raised her head and met his gaze. She was struck by how closely his features resembled those of Songtsen Gampo in the painting. At the same time, Huaimin felt that Annie looked astonishingly similar to Princess Wencheng from the sketches he had copied.
Annie pointed at the two paintings.
“Sir, how much are these two paintings?”
The vendor replied, “Those are display pieces—not for sale. Please choose something else.”
Huaimin removed his hat politely and smiled. “Miss, please wait a moment. Let me speak to him.”
Although Annie understood Mandarin, she didn’t quite understand his intention.
Huaimin spoke a few words in Tibetan to the vendor, who immediately rolled up the two paintings and handed them to him. Huaimin then gave them to Annie.
“For you,” he said gently. “A small gesture of goodwill.”
Annie accepted them with a smile, curiosity stirring in her heart.
________________________________________
02
As Annie and Huaimin walked and talked, she carried a paper bag containing the two paintings. Mido and Zhang Yang followed behind them, while Zhang Yang’s gaze never left Annie.
“My name is Degé Gesang. Nice to meet you,” he said.
“My name is Annie. I’m from California.”
“I thought so. You’re from overseas, aren’t you? Is this your first time back in Tibet?”
“Yes. I came back to find my father and return to Tibet with him. This is my grandmother’s homeland.”
“Welcome home. I grew up in Taiwan. My grandfather was Tibetan. After graduating from art school, I returned here to serve my people.”
“You’re from Taiwan?” Annie asked.
“Yes. My grandfather moved there in 1949 and lived in Yangmingshan.”
“I’ve been to Taiwan. I visited Yangmingshan during the flower season—it was beautiful. Why did you return here?”
“Before my grandfather passed away, Taiwan opened travel to the mainland. He returned to Tibet with my father to visit relatives. At the end of last year, I volunteered to work here, helping the Cultural Heritage Bureau restore Tibetan Buddhist murals.”
“Restoring Buddhist murals?” Annie asked with interest.
“The portraits you’re holding—I copied them from the original paintings.”
Annie looked surprised. “You painted those?”
“Yes. When I first saw you, I thought you resembled Princess Wencheng.”
“Really? That much?”
“Yes. If you like, I can take you to Jokhang Temple to see the original Tang dynasty paintings.”
“That would be wonderful. Actually, I came to Tibet to research Tibetan Buddhist murals for my doctoral thesis.”
“Then I can definitely help. Here’s my contact information and the address of my research studio near Jokhang Temple. I have materials you can copy.”
He handed her a small card.
“Thank you so much,” Annie said sincerely.
She felt a strange familiarity toward this young man she had just met. Nearby, Zhang Yang watched quietly, a faint jealousy stirring in his heart.
“Annie, there are more shops ahead worth checking out,” Zhang Yang said, pointing forward.
“Lead the way,” Annie replied.
As Zhang Yang led her away, Gesang watched their backs fade into the crowd.
________________________________________
03
They continued browsing the market. Annie selected souvenirs while Mido offered suggestions. Zhang Yang helped bargain with the vendors. Annie bought two dzi bead bracelets and two necklaces.
They stopped at a shop selling traditional Tibetan clothing. Annie went inside, and Mido and Zhang Yang followed.
As Annie browsed, Mido advised her. Zhang Yang chatted familiarly with the shop owner.
“She’s like my little sister,” Zhang Yang said. “Give her a fair price.”
“Brother Zhang, I’ll add only ten percent over wholesale. I can’t sell at a loss,” the shop owner replied.
“That won’t do. I’ve brought you so many customers—you’ve got to give me some face.”
The shop owner sighed. “Alright, alright. Two hundred yuan, final price. That’s the factory cost.”
“Good. That’s fair,” Zhang Yang said. “Put it on my tab.”
Annie immediately protested. “No! I’m paying for it myself.”
Zhang Yang pulled out two hundred-yuan bills, but Annie stopped him. The shop owner hesitated, then accepted Annie’s money. A woman behind the counter frowned slightly.
________________________________________
04
Led by Zhang Yang, the three climbed the long pilgrimage path toward the Potala Palace.
“Are you okay, Annie?” Zhang Yang asked gently.
Annie nodded, slightly breathless, one hand on her chest. Mido walked beside her, offering support.
“Take it slow—think of it as a stroll,” Zhang Yang said.
Inside the Red Palace, Annie carefully observed the sacred artifacts, asking questions as she went. Zhang Yang and Mido answered patiently.
They arrived at the corridor of prayer wheels, and the women followed Zhang Yang in turning them.
Afterward, they entered the courtyard.
“Mido,” Zhang Yang asked, “do you know the significance of the prayer wheels?”
“I’ve read about it. Turning them accumulates merit, removes karmic obstacles, and wards off illness.”
Zhang Yang smiled. “That’s essentially it.”
“Is it really that powerful?” Annie asked.
“That’s what our elders say,” Zhang Yang replied.
________________________________________
Meanwhile, in a guest chamber of the Potala Palace, Zhashi sat cross-legged across from a senior monk named Sering Tsering.
“Professor, is your purpose for returning to Tibet the same as before?” the monk asked.
“Yes. I am still searching for the love-poem manuscript of our ancestor, Tsangyang Gyatso.”
The monk spoke thoughtfully, “Recently, while observing the stars, I sensed that a young man and woman—reincarnations connected to Songtsen Gampo and Princess Wencheng—have appeared in Tibet. Your journey may bear fruit. If you find them, the lost manuscript may also be revealed.”
Zhashi felt a surge of excitement.
The monk opened a sandalwood box and handed him a token.
“When you travel to Shigatse, present this to the abbots. They will treat you as an honored guest.”
Zhashi accepted it respectfully. “Thank you for your guidance.”
________________________________________
05
Back at the hotel, Annie and Mido shared a room.
After washing up, Annie stood by the window, gazing at the moonlit mountains. Soft singing drifted in from across the street—music from a shop selling Buddhist items. A woman’s voice sang gently and clearly.
Mido, drying her hair with a towel, said, “That’s one of Tsangyang Gyatso’s love poems set to music.”
Annie asked, “You’ve read the poems of the ‘Love Monk’?”
“Yes. If he hadn’t been the reincarnated Dalai Lama, he would have been a romantic poet. Have you heard of Li Yu, the Southern Tang poet-king?”
Annie nodded.
“Tsangyang Gyatso’s tragic romance is similar. Both were trapped by love.”
Annie murmured softly, “Trapped by love…”