《拉薩情書》

第十五章、安妮和懷民回到柏克萊
01
回到加州柏克萊，林蔭道上丹楓正開始轉紅。
安妮和懷民進到家裡，便著手整理家屋環境。懷民手持大花剪，整理庭院花圃。安妮打掃地板擦拭門窗。懷民推著除草機整理草坪，安妮整理那塊農地，整地鋤草。兩人忙到傍晚，安妮取出美蘭給他們的獵人飯包，放進烤箱加熱；接著打開咖啡罐，舀了兩勺咖啡豆，放進咖啡機裡，沖泡兩大杯咖啡。懷民剛沐浴出來，披著大浴巾，兩人在小餐廳裡，吃著獵人飯包，喝著香濃阿里山咖啡。
安妮說：「你媽包的飯包很有料喔！裡頭有炒過的山豬肉條、栗子、鹹蛋黃和蘿蔔絲。」
懷民滿意地微笑說：「我媽的愛心啊！」
「有媽咪，真好：」說到這裡，安妮望著窗台上母親的照片，一時間不免感傷。
懷民柔聲撫慰說：「安妮，在阿里山妳還有個媽咪啊！」
安妮臉上重現笑容說：「對啊！我還有個媽咪，很會做菜呢！」
懷民說：「明年春天，我們就會離開這裡，很可惜，來不及播種小米和青稞。」
安妮說：「不會來不及啊！我們這裡冬天很暖和，你沒發現我已經把那塊農地整理好了？」
懷民微笑說：「我還以為妳預備種草莓的。」
安妮說：「草莓當然也可以播種啊！不過得再等上兩個月，接近年底溫度低些時。」

02
安妮帶著懷民來到墓園，在祖母卓瑪的墓前放上一束鮮花。
「我祖母卓瑪，一個意志力堅強過人的女性。」
「喔？我聽妳提過，她來自西藏。」
「嗯！祖母年輕時，正值抗日戰爭，她在成都就讀西南聯大時，認識我祖父，我祖父是飛虎隊軍官。你聽過飛虎隊嗎？」
「聽過，陳納德將軍和陳香梅女士，在台灣，他們夫妻的事蹟廣為人知。」
安妮娓娓到來：「抗戰勝利後，祖父跟著祖母回到拉薩，後來共產黨進逼長江，我祖父再度被徵召入伍，兩人回到南京，祖父駕駛戰機執行多次任務，上海即將淪陷前，他們夫妻跟著國民政府，一路轉進到台灣。幾年後，我祖父在執行高空偵察任務時被擊落殉職，祖母領了撫卹金，懷著身孕隻身來到加州，在柏克萊大學找到圖書館管理員工作，生下我父親札希，她邊工作邊帶孩子邊進修讀書，完成藝術學博士課程，留在藝術學院裡教書。」
懷民讚嘆說：「妳祖母真的很偉大，一個堅強的時代女性。」
「祖母卓瑪是一篇壯闊的時代小說，她的身上有著動亂時代的縮影；相形之下，我母親Grace卻是一首悲傷的抒情詩……。」安妮說著，眼眶泛紅，眼裡滲出淚光。
「喔！妳母親發生什麼事？」懷民小心地探問。
安妮搖頭說：「我不想提起她，她是我心頭揮不去的陰影！」
「好吧！那我不問。」懷民很識相地閉嘴。
「我們去給Grace上墳吧！」安妮一手拉著懷民，穿過幾道小徑，來到新墳區，Grace墳前。
懷民留意到Grace墓碑上的起迄年代，心想：「原來，安妮的母親去年剛過世，難怪她不想提起……。」
安妮獻上一束鮮花，雙手合十默禱著。懷民跟著雙手合十，面對這位來不及碰面的岳母，懷民一時間也不知該說些什麼，但是懷民感謝Grace把安妮教養得這麼好，他甚至相信，Grace活著時一定是個賢妻良母，因為他從安妮身上，感受到這些美好的素質。

03
在藝術學院藝術研究所圖書室裡，安妮介紹湯懷民給李建華認識。
李建華很仔細地端詳著眼前，這個陽光外型的大男孩。
「跟妳爸札希，年輕時一樣的帥氣！」李建華脫口說出第一印象，接著說：「安妮，妳很有眼光。」
安妮微笑說：「跟父親相處大半年，覺得他就是個地道的scholar；懷民比較像個藝術氣息的文青，腦筋直、腸子也直，感覺沒什麼心眼。」
頭一回聽到安妮對自己的評價，懷民搔頭傻笑辯解說：「其實，我沒那麼天然呆喔！」
安妮對懷民扮了個鬼臉說：「我沒說你天然呆啊！」
「哈！看來你們兩人默契不錯，就是登對啊！」李建華看見小兩口小小鬥嘴，心裡感到欣慰。
「Uncle，我的博士論文可能會換題目，這幾天提出來給你。」
「不急，妳慢慢琢磨，慢工出細活嘛！我去上課囉，你們忙，傍晚我在系裡等你們，我請你們上館子。」
「不用上館子，Uncle來我家，我讓懷民露一手他的家鄉菜給你嚐嚐！」
「好啊！那我就去當食客囉。晚點我自行搭車去妳家。」李建華笑盈盈，說完轉身離開。
安妮這時卻看見懷民瞠目結舌，像個木頭人似地盯著她。
安妮問：「你怎麼啦？懷民。」
懷民抱怨說：「妳怎麼不先問過我，就請妳叔叔來家裡吃飯？」
安妮說：「考考你的應變能力啊！」
懷民皺著眉頭說：「拜託喔！我的確會料理一些家鄉菜，可是你確定這裡買得到那些食材嗎？山豬肉、放山土雞、溪魚溪蝦…」
「咱們家裡不是有馬告、孜然粉還有愛玉籽嗎？待會兒我們去逛超市，挑選一些相近的食材，然後一起下廚囉！我叔叔不太挑食的。」安妮態度淡定，說得一派輕鬆。
懷民苦笑說：「好吧！」
「我們買些栗子和鹹蛋、蘿蔔乾，一起做獵人飯包，如何？」
「那也得有月桃葉子包裹啊！」
安妮微笑說：「月桃，家裡後院就有，足夠你天天採來使用。」
安妮接著說：「順便買些糯米和一串香蕉，我喜歡吃你親手搗的香蕉麻薯。」
「可是，家裡沒有木杵木臼啊！」
「那就多跑幾家超市囉！我看見印地安人使用過，應該找得到。」
懷民一臉無奈說：「妳可真會出些奇怪的考題呢！」

04
廚房裡，小兩口相互支援，在互動裡陪養默契。不過，不時出現兩人意見相左，
而結果多半是懷民這方先妥協。
「鹹豬肉要灑上馬告調味啦！」
安妮反駁說：「灑上孜然粉試試，羊肉可以，鹹豬肉為什麼不行？這裡的鹹豬肉都是煙燻過的臘肉，馬告味道稍嫌霸氣，和煙燻味不搭呀！灑上孜然粉，就當是燒烤羊肉吧？」
懷民不甘示弱說：「那妳何不下回改買羊肉排回來？像這樣雞同鴨講的調味方式
，就不像我們鄒族的傳統料理方法了！」
「好吧！下回買生羊排和豬五花肉條，五花肉讓你醃製，我們各自發揮手藝。」安妮稍作讓步。
「那麼，這道鹹酥蝦，就不能再使用孜然粉了！」懷民態度相當堅持。
「就鹽漬，加大蒜提味囉！」
懷民立馬糾正說：「不只啦，我媽使用好幾種調味料喔！我想一下，有蔥、蒜仁、辣椒和白胡椒粉，還要加上鹽和兩勺米酒。」
安妮故意揶揄說：「哈！你啊！媽寶一個！」
懷民不以為意說：「媽寶才好呢！這是世代傳承啊！」
安妮說：「改天我用藏族的料理方式，弄一道溪蝦給你嚐嚐！」
懷民大笑說：「哈哈哈！我在西藏待了一整年，也沒聽過當地有產溪蝦啊？」
安妮說：「那是你少見多怪，我們西藏地區的確有產豐年蝦喔！只是品種跟台灣溪蝦不同，主要做成紅龍、銀帶等高級觀賞魚的飼料。」
懷民笑著說：「那是給魚吃的，哪能做成料理啊！」
安妮不服氣說：「那我用海蝦做食材，總行吧？」
懷民搖著食指說：「食材還是不對，我們的鄒族鹹酥溪蝦，使用的是生活在淡水裡的溪蝦。」
安妮假裝生氣，嘟起小嘴質問：「你真的很瞎耶！湯懷民，我有說過要做鄒族鹹酥溪蝦嗎？要不要我倒帶，重播一遍我剛才講過的話？」
懷民趕緊回想一下，搔頭傻笑說：「妳好像沒這樣說。」

05
菜餚逐一端上餐桌，卻是混合著藏族和鄒族兩類料理。李建華對這兩類料理都外行，有啥就吃啥，還邊吃邊誇讚美味。
「桌上這些料理，我在中華街上都沒吃過，尤其這小米粽子，內餡有些像北方粽子，卻有著一股檸檬香味。」
懷民自豪地說：「教授，那是我媽改良自傳統的鄒族獵人飯包，是我們鄒族男人出遠門打獵時，隨身攜帶的食物。」
李建華回憶著說：「鄒族？我聽過，好像分佈在台灣阿里山上，十幾年前我去台灣開會時，當地的朋友帶我去過阿里山，賞櫻花！我想起來了，山上櫻花季裡，盛開著好幾種櫻花。」
懷民感興趣地追問：「那麼，教授曾聽過達邦社和特富野社嗎？」
李建華津津樂道著說：「豈此聽過，我還特地去參觀當地的聚會所，我記得是用茅草蓋成的高腳屋，裡頭有個火炕，聽當地人說終年火苗不熄呢！」
懷民對李建華立馬感到親切說：「那聚會所，我們鄒族人稱為庫巴(Cuba)，我老家就在達邦社，庫巴後方緊鄰的那排石板平房。」
李建華微笑說：「那排平房我有印象喔！石板堆疊，我還進去逛了一下。」
「真是不可思議！」湯懷民驚喜說著：「教授說不定真的去過我家呢！我家裡經常有觀光客前來參觀。」
安妮說：「地球本來就不大啊！」
「可惜我一直沒機會去西藏。」李建華說：「大陸我去過許多地方，最遠到新疆伊犁、塔城，就是沒去西藏。」
安妮說：「以後有機會啊！Uncle，我們打算回西藏拉薩定居。」
李建華提議說：「安妮，其實妳可以考慮留在這裡教書，然後以訪問學者的方式，回去西藏做研究工作。」
懷民想了一下說：「安妮，教授提的，是個不錯的選項喔！」
安妮點頭說：「我會認真考慮的，Uncle。」
李建華分析說：「以妳在系所裡的傑出表現，加上妳祖母這層關係，妳應該有機會留在柏克萊。所裡許多資深教授，年輕時都曾經是卓瑪的學生。」
安妮提醒說：「Uncle，先嚐嚐這桌菜餚吧！我和懷民頭一回一起下廚做的。」
李建華瞇眼笑著說：「哈！我剛嚐了幾道，都很有特色，很讚很讚！」

Chapter 15 – Annie and Huaimin Return to Berkeley
01
Back in Berkeley, California, the maple trees on the avenue were turning red.
Annie and Huaimin started tidying the house. Huaimin trimmed the garden with large scissors, Annie cleaned floors and windows. Huaimin mowed the lawn while Annie cultivated a small farm plot. By evening, Annie heated Meilan’s hunter’s rice parcels in the oven and brewed two large cups of coffee. Fresh from a shower and wrapped in a towel, Huaimin joined Annie in the small dining room, enjoying the food and rich Alishan coffee.
Annie said: “Your mom packed a lot in these parcels! There’s stir-fried wild boar, chestnuts, salted egg yolks, and shredded radish.”
Huaimin smiled: “That’s my mom’s love!”
“Having a mom is wonderful.” Annie glanced at her mother’s photo on the windowsill, feeling a pang of sadness.
Huaimin gently comforted her: “Annie, you still have a mom in Alishan!”
Annie smiled again: “Yes! I have a mom who’s an amazing cook!”
Huaimin said: “Next spring, we’ll leave. Too bad we won’t get to plant millet or barley.”
Annie replied: “It’s not too late! Winter is mild here. Didn’t you notice I’ve already prepared the plot?”
Huaimin smiled: “I thought you were preparing for strawberries.”
Annie: “We can plant strawberries later, but we’ll wait another two months when it’s cooler.”
________________________________________
02
Annie took Huaimin to the cemetery to place flowers on her grandmother Zhuoma’s grave.
“My grandmother Zhuoma was a woman of extraordinary willpower.”
“Oh? You mentioned she was from Tibet.”
“Yes. During WWII, she studied at the Southwest United University in Chengdu, where she met my grandfather, a Flying Tigers officer. Have you heard of the Flying Tigers?”
“Yes, General Chennault and Madame Chen Xiangmei—they are well-known in Taiwan.”
Annie continued: “After the war, my grandparents returned to Lhasa. When the communists advanced to the Yangtze, my grandfather was called to serve again, and they moved to Nanjing. He flew many missions until Shanghai fell. They retreated with the Nationalist government to Taiwan. Years later, my grandfather died in a reconnaissance mission. My grandmother, pregnant, moved alone to California, worked as a library assistant at Berkeley, raised my father Zahi, and earned her PhD while teaching in the arts.”
Huaimin admired: “Your grandmother was remarkable—a strong woman of her era.”
“Zhuoma is like an epic historical novel. In contrast, my mother Grace was like a sad lyric poem…” Annie’s eyes welled with tears.
“Oh! What happened to your mother?” Huaimin asked gently.
Annie shook her head: “I don’t want to talk about her. She’s a shadow in my heart.”
“Alright, I won’t ask,” Huaimin respected her wishes.
They walked to Grace’s grave. Huaimin noticed the dates on the tombstone and thought: “So Annie’s mother passed away last year; no wonder she avoids the topic.”
Annie offered flowers and prayed silently. Huaimin joined her silently, grateful for Grace’s upbringing of Annie, recognizing the virtues of a good wife and mother in her.
________________________________________
03
In the Art Research Institute library, Annie introduced Huaimin to Li Jianhua.
Li carefully observed the tall, sunlit young man.
“He’s as handsome as your father, Zahi, when he was young!” Li said. Then: “Annie, you have a good eye.”
Annie smiled: “Spending half a year with my father, I saw he’s a true scholar. Huaimin is more of an artsy type, straightforward and sincere.”
Huaimin, hearing this for the first time, scratched his head and smiled: “Actually, I’m not that naive!”
Annie teased: “I never said you were naive!”
“Ha! You two have good chemistry,” Li smiled, seeing their playful banter.
“Uncle, I may change my dissertation topic. I’ll show you soon.”
“No rush. Take your time. I’ll see you this evening at the department and treat you to a meal.”
“No need, Uncle. Come to our house; I’ll let Huaimin show off his hometown cooking!”
“Perfect! I’ll be your guest. I’ll take the bus later.” Li smiled and left.
Annie noticed Huaimin staring blankly, like a wooden statue.
“Are you okay, Huaimin?” she asked.
“Why didn’t you ask me first before inviting your uncle over?”
“Testing your adaptability!” Annie said casually.
Huaimin frowned: “I can cook, but are those ingredients available here? Wild boar, free-range chicken, creek fish…”
“Don’t worry. We have mountain pepper, cumin, and Aiyu seeds at home. Later, we’ll buy similar ingredients at the supermarket and cook together. My uncle isn’t picky.”
Huaimin smiled wryly: “Alright…”
“Let’s buy chestnuts, salted eggs, and dried radish to make hunter’s rice parcels.”
“We’ll need shell ginger leaves to wrap them!”
“Don’t worry, we have plenty in the backyard,” Annie said.
“Also, let’s get glutinous rice and bananas. I love your handmade banana mochi.”
“But we don’t have a mortar and pestle!”
“Then we’ll check a few stores! I’ve seen Native Americans use them; we can find some.”
Huaimin shook his head helplessly: “You really give me strange challenges!”
04
In the kitchen, the young couple supported each other, gradually building coordination through their interactions. However, disagreements occasionally arose, and most of the time, Huai-min would compromise first.
“Salted pork needs to be seasoned with Magao!”
Annie countered, “Try cumin instead. It works with lamb, so why not with salted pork? This salted pork is smoked bacon, and the Magao flavor is a bit too strong—it doesn’t match the smoky taste. Sprinkle cumin instead, just like we do with grilled lamb.”
Huai-min, unwilling to give in, replied, “Then why not buy lamb chops next time? Seasoning like this is just a mismatch—it doesn’t follow the traditional cooking methods of our Tsou people!”
“Fine! Next time we’ll get fresh lamb chops and pork belly strips. You can marinate the pork belly, and we’ll each showcase our own skills,” Annie relented slightly.
“Then this salted crispy shrimp can’t have cumin at all!” Huai-min insisted firmly.
“Just salt it and add garlic for flavor!”
Huai-min immediately corrected her: “Not just that. My mom uses several seasonings. Let me see… scallions, garlic cloves, chili, white pepper, plus salt and two spoons of rice wine.”
Annie teased, “Ha! You’re such a mama’s boy!”
Huai-min waved it off: “Being a mama’s boy is good! It’s tradition passed down through generations.”
Annie said, “Next time I’ll cook some Tibetan-style river shrimp for you to try!”
Huai-min laughed heartily: “Haha! I spent a whole year in Tibet, and I’ve never heard of local river shrimp.”
Annie replied, “That’s because you haven’t seen much. In Tibet, there are indeed river shrimp—but they are different from Taiwan’s, mostly used as feed for ornamental fish like red dragons and silver bands.”
Huai-min smiled: “But that’s for fish, not for cooking!”
Annie argued: “Then I’ll use sea shrimp as the ingredient, is that okay?”
Huai-min wagged a finger: “Still not right. Our Tsou-style salted crispy river shrimp uses freshwater river shrimp.”
Annie pouted playfully, “You’re really ridiculous! Huai-min, did I ever say we’re making Tsou-style salted crispy shrimp? Should I rewind and play back what I just said?”
Huai-min quickly thought and scratched his head, grinning foolishly: “You didn’t actually say that.”
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05
The dishes were served one by one, a mix of Tibetan and Tsou cuisine. Li Jianhua was unfamiliar with both, so he ate whatever was available, complimenting the flavors as he went.
“I’ve never tasted these dishes in Chinatown. Especially these millet dumplings—the filling is somewhat like northern Chinese zongzi, but with a hint of lemon aroma.”
Huai-min proudly said, “Professor, that’s my mom’s adaptation of the traditional Tsou hunter’s rice package. Our Tsou men carry it when they go hunting.”
Li Jianhua recalled: “Tsou? I’ve heard of them. They live on Taiwan’s Alishan. Over a decade ago, I visited Taiwan for a conference, and local friends took me to Alishan to see the cherry blossoms! I remember several varieties were in full bloom.”
Huai-min curiously asked: “Have you ever heard of the Dabang and Tefuye communities?”
Li Jianhua enthusiastically replied: “Of course! I even visited their community hall. It was a stilted house with a thatched roof. Inside was a kang-style heated bed, with fire burning year-round, they said!”
Huai-min immediately felt a connection: “That hall is called a Cuba by the Tsou. My hometown is in Dabang, right behind the Cuba, with a row of stone slab houses.”
Li Jianhua smiled: “I remember that row! I even went inside to have a look.”
“Incredible!” Huai-min exclaimed. “Professor might have actually been to my house! Tourists visit it all the time.”
Annie added: “The world really isn’t that big!”
“It’s a pity I never went to Tibet,” Li Jianhua said. “I’ve been to many places in mainland China, as far as Ili and Tacheng in Xinjiang, but never Tibet.”
Annie said: “There will be a chance in the future! Uncle, we plan to settle in Lhasa, Tibet.”
Li Jianhua suggested: “Annie, you could also consider staying here to teach, and conduct research in Tibet as a visiting scholar.”
Huai-min thought for a moment: “Annie, that’s a pretty good option!”
Annie nodded: “I’ll seriously consider it, Uncle.”
Li Jianhua analyzed: “With your outstanding performance in the department, plus your grandmother’s connections, you might have a chance to stay at Berkeley. Many senior professors here were once her students.”
Annie reminded: “Uncle, first taste these dishes! Huai-min and I cooked them together for the first time.”
Li Jianhua squinted and smiled: “Ha! I just tried a few dishes. They’re all unique—excellent!”